Neighbourhood guide · Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
Around the old town, the mahalas climb steeply up the hills: lanes of houses and gardens, small mosques, cemeteries, fortresses and some of the best views and restaurants in the city.
About Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
On the south bank, Bistrik holds the brewery, the cable-car station and the road to Trebević. To the north-east, Vratnik’s 18th-century walls include the Yellow and White Fortresses. Higher still, Sedrenik and Vrbanjuša have restaurants with panoramic terraces.
Expect steep climbs; taxis are cheap and the views are worth it.
Where Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas is
Our 14 places in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
Restaurants in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
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Home cooking with a view
Bašča kod Ene
A family restaurant in a garden on the hillside of Sedrenik, with home-style Bosnian dishes and a view over the city.
Prvi bataljon Sedrenik 22Explore View on map
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A view over the city
Kibe Mahala
A restaurant high on the hillside of Vrbanjuša, known for its grills and its view over the whole city.
Vrbanjuša 106Explore View on map
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At the Sarajevo Brewery
Pivnica HS
The beer hall of the Sarajevo Brewery, in a grand brewery building by the river, with house beers and hearty food.
Franjevačka 15Explore View on map
Cafés in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
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Coffee above the old town
Caffe Kamarija
A café on the slopes above Baščaršija, with views over the old town.
Hotels in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
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An Ottoman bathhouse
Isa Begov Hotel
A hotel in the restored Isa-beg hammam, the bathhouse named after the founder of Sarajevo.
Sights in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
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The oldest mosque
Emperor’s Mosque
The mosque dedicated to Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, across the river from Baščaršija, the first built in Sarajevo.
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Graffiti in the forest
Olympic bobsleigh track
The bobsleigh and luge track of the 1984 Olympics, winding through the forest of Trebević and covered with graffiti.
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Up to the Olympic mountain
Trebević Cable Car
The cable car from Bistrik to Mount Trebević, rebuilt and reopened in 2018, with views over the whole city.
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Walls on the hill
White Fortress
The ruined fortress high above the Miljacka canyon, with wide views.
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Sunset over the city
Yellow Fortress
An 18th-century bastion above the old town, the best place to watch the sun set over Sarajevo.
Parks & nature in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
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A walk out of the city
Miljacka canyon & the Goat’s Bridge
A walk upstream from the old town along the Miljacka canyon to the 16th-century Goat’s Bridge.
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The city’s mountain
Mount Trebević
The mountain above the old town, reached by cable car, with forests, viewpoints and the Olympic bobsleigh track.
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Alpine coaster
Sunnyland
A hillside family park with an alpine coaster and views, on the road towards Trebević.
Getting around in Bistrik, Vratnik & the hillside mahalas
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Ten minutes to the mountain
Trebević Cable Car (transport)
The cable car from Bistrik to Trebević, reopened in 2018.
See the full list: Getting Around Sarajevo: Airport, Trams, the Cable Car, Trains & Onward Travel