Bosnian coffee: the back story

About Bosnian coffee: the back story

By the ULTIMATE Sarajevo Editorial Team

Coffee arrived in Bosnia with the Ottomans in the 16th century, and Sarajevo has never let it go. A “kahva” is an invitation to sit, talk and slow down, whether in a bazaar teahouse or a terrace on Ferhadija.

The ritual

Bosnian coffee is brewed in a džezva, a small copper pot, and served on a tray with a fildžan, a small handle-less cup, a glass of water and a cube of sugar or a piece of rahat lokum (Turkish delight). Pour a little at a time and let the grounds settle; locals dip the sugar cube in the coffee and nibble it.

Bosnian or Turkish?

The method is close to Turkish coffee, but in Bosnia the ground coffee is added to water that has already boiled, and the coffee is served for you to pour yourself. Ask for “bosanska kahva”.

You do not drink a Bosnian coffee quickly. That is the point.

Where to drink it

The old town is the place: small cafés in Baščaršija’s lanes and courtyards, such as Ramis, the café in Morića Han and Art Kuća Sevdaha, where coffee comes with sevdah music. For a view, take a coffee at the Yellow Fortress.

The new wave

Sarajevo also has an excellent specialty-coffee scene, with roasters and baristas at places like Ministry of Ćejf, Kawa and Fabrika. Many locals drink espresso and macchiato during the day and save Bosnian coffee for the slow moments.

Our advice: order a Bosnian coffee in the bazaar on your first morning and take your time; buy a džezva and fildžan set from a coppersmith on Kazandžiluk to take home; and try a flat white at one of the specialty cafés to see the city’s modern side.

Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with Bosnian coffee: the back story before you go.